One Day of Dyeing, One Week of “Lye Removal”
In truth, it takes only one day to dye a garment—unless you need to split the process over several days to achieve an exceptionally deep color.
So what do we do between dyeing and finishing? Most of the remaining time is spent on a process called “post-treatment.”
Our indigo dyeing uses a traditional method called “natural fermented lye vatting,” which uses no chemicals whatsoever. As the name suggests, we use “lye” extracted from hardwood ashes to prepare the dye vat. After dyeing, it is extremely important for the final appearance of the color to thoroughly wash away this lye unique to indigo dyeing that remains in the fabric.
Depending on the weather, this post-treatment—the removal of the lye—takes about a week on its own.
The Origin of the Word “Akadukeru”
After dyeing, we wash the fabric, dry it in the sun, and soak it in hot water. Repeating this process three or four times causes brownish lye to float to the surface of the water. This indicates that the lye is being removed from the fabric.
There is a Japanese word, “akadukeru,” which means to lose one’s unrefined appearance and become more sophisticated. One theory suggests that it originated from the way the lye is removed from indigo-dyed fabric.
The more you wash it, the more the lye—an impurity—is removed, the dullness fades, and the indigo color becomes more vivid and clear. It was this beautiful transformation that people of the past described as “akadukeru.”
A Blue That Grows More Beautiful with Washing
In our workshop, we also perform as much lye removal as possible before delivering the garment. However, over time, small amounts of lye gradually float out from deep within the fabric. It is necessary to continue removing it through daily use over many years.
Occasionally, some people say they “haven’t washed their indigo-dyed products in years” for fear of color transfer or fading, but with indigo dyeing, the opposite is true. Please wear it every day and wash it without hesitation. Ideally, you should soak it in lukewarm water from time to time, but if that is difficult, regular washing is perfectly fine.
As you repeat the simple step of washing it, the lye will naturally be completely removed, and the indigo color will become even more vivid and clear.
The dullness fades, and the color develops into a clear, pure blue. This vivid indigo is the greatest proof that you have cared for the garment and worn it by your side for a long time in your daily life. Wear it often, wash it often, and develop an indigo color that only you can create.